Hyperbolic Paraboloid – Foundation Paper Pieced (FPP) Pattern

Here is the Foundation Paper Piecing (FPP) Pattern for my Hyperbolic Paraboloid Quilt. I have included two sizes:
– original 24″ block makes a 26″ x 26″ quilt with a 1″ border*, and
– small 12″ block makes a 13″ x 13″ mini-quilt with a 1/2″ border.

Tape the pattern sheets together to assemble the pattern (12 sheets for the 24″ pattern, 4 sheets for the 12″ pattern). The FPP pattern is ready to use, ie. it is a mirror image of the diagram above. All seams are straight – the illusion produces a curve.

This pattern assumes Foundation Paper Piecing knowledge. The photos below are not a complete tutorial, they highlight various tips and information about how I sewed the block.

I made my 12″ sample block using regular FPP method which worked very well. However after it was sewn together I was concerned about the bulk along the A/B seam. Subsequently, I also tested the Freezer Paper Method – no tearing away of paper and I can press the seams open.

For the Freezer Paper Method, after you print the pattern and tape it together, copy the pattern pieces onto freezer paper. For me the main advantage of using the Freezer Paper Method is that after you sew a seam you can release the freezer paper next to the seam and re-iron that seam open. This significantly reduces the bulk between sections “A” and “B”. Check throughout the sewing process that the fabric is well attached to the freezer paper – you do not want the fabric to shift and create puckered or distorted units.

FPP and large pieces of fabric – Working with FPP and a large piece of fabric may be a challenge. My suggestion is to machine tack (use the longest stitch length on your sewing machine) the large A1 and B1 pieces of fabric to the paper foundation. If you are using the Freezer Paper Method, iron the fabric onto the pattern, make sure it is flat with no distortion, creases or puckers.

Section C1 – I used C1 as a template, cutting out the fabric and sewing this section without the paper.

Sewing sections together, seam directions – I pressed the A/B seam towards section “A”, and the AB/C seam towards section “C”. If using the Freezer Paper Method, press all seams open. But it’s your quilt – so press in the direction that works best for you.

Press well and often! Pressing is very important to ensure all the fabric lays as flat as possible.

24″ Hyperbolic Paraboloid – FPP Pattern – A4 Download

24″ Hyperbolic Paraboloid – FPP Pattern – Letter Download

*Finished size 26″ x 26″
Borders: Cut (2) 1.5″ x 24.5″ strips, and (2) 1.5″ x 26.5″ strips

*Unfortunately, a couple of deadlines are fast approaching so no time for me to test the large pattern – apologies for that. I think you can use FPP or Freezer Paper FPP for the 24″ block.

12″ Hyperbolic Paraboloid – FPP Pattern – A4 Download

12″ Hyperbolic Paraboloid – FPP Pattern – Letter Download

Finished size 13″ x 13″
Borders: Cut (2) 1″ x 12.5″ strips, and (2) 1″ x 13.5″ strips

Start stitching from outside the edge of the unit so that the stitching extends beyond the seam allowance.

Happy to answer your questions, leave a comment below and I will get right on it.

(Copyright Diana Vandeyar. For personal use only)

Virtual Quilt Coat

Want to know how your quilt would look as a coat? I made a “quick and dirty” mock-up template and enjoyed myself so much, I wanted to share it with you.

Click on the Download button “Quilt Coat Mock-up” PNG file below, then right-click and “Save as…” to your computer. Open the file with your image and photo editing program (it needs to have Layer capabilities, for example Photoshop or Paint.net as a free alternative).

Import or Paste a photo of your quilt into a new Layer below the template. You may need to play with the scale and rotation to get the right effect. You may also need to duplicate (copy and paste) your quilt within the layer to cover the template windows.

Add different quilt photos in separate layers below the template within the same document. Turning “off” and “on” the Layers to see the different mock-ups.

Have fun!

... Diana

Quilt Coat Mock-up PNG Download

(Copyright Diana Vandeyar. For personal use only)

Moka Quilt Block – Foundation Paper Piecing Pattern

Block Size: 8″ x 10″

Thank you for the interest you have shown in the Moka block, it’s a favorite of mine too!

I made this block in 2013, slightly smaller than the original drafted pattern (7 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ … I don’t know why) and off center (to accommodate some words), which I did not like for this re-design (the off centre part, not the words, lol). And I prefer the handle on the right. So the new design is now centered which make me happy. But I have not tested the pattern included here – so I hope it’s OK (please let me know if there are any problems).

The paper pattern is already reversed so it’s good to go for a block with the handle on the right, like the pics above. I’m not including instructions because I’m sure you all know what to do 🙂 and there are lots of Foundation Paper Piecing tutorials out there.

Would love to see your blocks. If you post on Instagram, please tag me so I can see your work! #mokaquiltblock

… Diana

Moka FPP Pattern (A4)Download

Moka FPP Pattern (Letter)Download

Key Block Download

(Copyright Diana Vandeyar. For personal use only)

How Much Can A Koala Bear?

Here is my free pattern for a Koala Bear quilt.

Feel free to use for fundraiser quilt swaps, charity quilts or personal use.

… Diana

How Much Can A Koala Bear Download

Block 6 – Peaks

The Urban Sampler Quilt

Cutting Instructions

Unfinished block size: 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
There are 5 Peaks blocks in this quilt.

Block 6 Peaks Templates Download

Here are the templates for the final block!

This block could be a bit tricky as some of the elements are not symmetrical – make sure you keep the pieces in the correct orientation.

Refer to the “Key Block” on the Template’s sheet to keep track of the correct placements.

Mark the “top” of each templates (as shown in the photos below) so that you always know which way to orientate the template.

Pieces A, B, C, D, K and L are cut from a 3 1/2″ strip of fabric.
Pieces E, F, G, H, I and J are cut from a 3″ strip of fabric.

Cut one block at a time so that the pieces do not get mixed up.

Line up the flat bottom or top of a template with the cut edge of the strip.

Sew your seams with a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.

I must apologize for not posting the step by step process as was my intention. My stay in Melbourne (following a family emergency) has been prolonged but when I get back home I will write up the detailed instructions.
Thank you for your patience…

Happy to answer your questions, leave a comment below and I will get right on it.

(Copyright Diana Vandeyar. For personal use only)

Block 5 – Quarter Circle Plus

The Urban Sampler Quilt

Cutting Instructions

Unfinished block size: 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
There are 7 Quarter Circle Plus blocks in this quilt.

Block 5 – Quarter Circle Plus Templates Download

Please follow the instructions as per Block 4 – Quarter Circle.
NB: Don’t forget to add the extra 1/8″ to the outside edge of the templates.

Happy to answer your questions, leave a comment below and I will get right on it.

(Copyright Diana Vandeyar. For personal use only)

Block 4 – Quarter Circle

The Urban Sampler Quilt

Cutting Instructions

Unfinished block size: 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
There are 6 Quarter Circle blocks in this quilt.

Block 4 – Quarter Circle Templates Download

These are the instruction for making one block.

Print the templates and join the pages accordingly. Check that the “L” template size is 8 1/2″. I have added an extra 1/8″ margin to the outside edge of the block so that I have a little extra fabric for trimming.

Stick 3 pieces of rolled up tape to the back of the template to hold it in place on the fabric. I cut the straight outside edges with a ruler placed over the template and free-hand cut the curve with a rotary blade (use a small diameter blade if you have one)

*Finger press each section in half to determine the middle.*

Beginning of sewing line: Align the straight edges so that they are level, then pin.

End of sewing line: *Align the straight edges so that they are level. Pin.*

Pin the middle, matching the finger pressed marks. Use as many pins as you need… no shame. Actually I use a few more than what the photo shows. Place your pin at right angles to the edge – within the seam allowance. Distribute the fabric evenly between the pins.

Note the needle position is one place to the right of middle.

With the top edges aligned take 3 stitches then stop with needle down. Remove first pin. Align curved edges as you work around the quarter circle. Stop with needle down, raise your sewing foot to release the fabric, as needed and re-align edge. Make sure edges are level and that there are no puckers. Use the knee-*lift (if you have one) to raise your sewing foot*. Work slowly if you are new to this technique. You will gain confidence and speed with every block you make.

Its easy to say don’t pull, don’t stretch, be careful with biased edges… but MY reality is that I do all those things to some extent.

Press seam open… or to the side if you prefer…

Here is a nifty trick… I use the right angle edge of my Teflon applique pressing mat/sheet as a square up tool (first just check that your pressing mat is actually square by laying a ruler on it). Quarter square blocks can be easily distorted when sewing and when pressing. I pin the opposing corners and gently coax the corner back to square with the iron. Use a light spray of water if needed.

Then I un-pin, rotate the block and do the opposite corner.

Align the 1/2″ mark to the arc and make sure the ruler sits within the block. Trim

*Rotate block. Align the 8 1/2″ mark*. Trim

Happy to answer your questions, leave a comment below and I will get right on it.

(Copyright Diana Vandeyar. For personal use only)

Block 3 – Hourglass

The Urban Sampler Quilt

Cutting Instructions

Unfinished block size: 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
There are 3 Hourglass blocks in this quilt.

These are the instruction for making one block.

Fabric A
2 (5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″) squares
Fabric B
2 (5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″) squares

Pair fabrics and draw a diagonal line on the top square.

Pin and sew 1/4″ on either side of drawn line.

Press seams open *(If you prefer, press your seams to the side)*. With right sides together and seams lined up, layer the two half-square block, make sure opposite colors are layered together. Pin where the seams meet – check that the seams are aligned by peaking inside.

Stitch 1/4″ on either side of drawn line.

Press seams open.
*(If you prefer, press your seams to the side)*

Trim to 4 1/2″ – making sure corners fall on diagonal seams.

Pin pairs as per layout and stitch using a scant 1/4″seam.

Pin the two halves of the block, matching the center seams.

Happy to answer your questions, leave a comment below and I will get right on it.

(Copyright Diana Vandeyar. For personal use only)

Block 2 – X

The Urban Sampler Quilt

Cutting Instructions

Unfinished block size: 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
There are 7 X blocks in this quilt.

These are the instruction for making one block.

Fabric A
1 (7 1/2″ x 7 1/2″) square
Fabric B
2 (2″ x 12 1/2″) strips

Sewing Machine Set-up

Every sewing machine is different and in order for me to get a scant 1/4″ seam allowance I need to move my needle one position to the right of center. Thread and fabric thickness also factor into producing a scant 1/4″ seam – so do a test. If you lose even a couple of thread widths with each seam you will end up short. I also use my 1/4″ patchwork foot with guide.

Press your block in half, open and press in half in the opposite direction. These creases will help you align your strips.

Sewing

I pin my seam, it helps with my accuracy.

Press your strip in half and align this with the center mark on your triangle. Pin in place.

Pressing

It’s really important to press your work as you go. I have found that my accuracy increases when the fabric is pressed well. You can never press too often!

Align the strip with the second triangle. Pin.

Finger press the middle of the strip at the cut edge, aligning the seams so that the crease is in the middle of the strip.

Align the second triangle to the strip. Pin.

Press the outer corners in half on the diagonal to produce a crease in the corners. Align the seams so that the crease is straight and in the middle of the strip.

Align the diagonal line of your square-up rule to matched the pressed creases in the diagonally opposite corners. Check that the opposite diagonal axis matches the creases in the opposite corners. Make sure the 8 1/2″ mark falls within the block on all sides.

Rotate block and trim the other two sides. Make sure you are on the 8 1/2″ marks.

Happy to answer your questions, leave a comment below and I will get right on it.

(Copyright Diana Vandeyar. For personal use only)

Block 1 – Stripes

The Urban Sampler Quilt

Cutting Instructions

Unfinished block size: 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
There are 8 Stripes blocks in this quilt.

These are the instruction for making one block.

Fabric A
4 (1 1/2″ x 8 1/2″) rectangles
Fabric B
4 (1 1/2″ x 8 1/2″) rectangles

Sewing Machine Set-up

Every sewing machine is different and in order for me to get a scant 1/4″ seam allowance I need to move my needle one position to the right of center. Thread and fabric thickness also factor into producing a scant 1/4″ seam – so do a test, especially for this block which has many seams. If you lose even a couple of thread widths with each seam you will end up short. I also use my 1/4″ patchwork foot with guide.

Sewing and Pressing

I pin at the beginning and end of each seam, it really helps with my accuracy.
As you see below, I have pressed my seams open but you can press yours to the side if you prefer.
It’s really important to press your work as you go. I have found that my accuracy increases when the fabric is pressed well. You can never press too often!